lunes, 31 de mayo de 2010

Lake Atitlan - A Circuit of The World's Most Beautiful Lake

Few of us can claim to have investigated Lake Atitlan in Guatemala, the place Lonely Planet travel guides describe as "The closest thing to Eden on Earth." However, in the absence of a spin around the lake, this article can give you an idea of the wonders of one of the most beautiful parts of the planet. Use it to assist you when choosing your next vacation, or at least to fake some good travel stories when chatting with your friends!

Getting there
Easy to access, the lake is about a two and a half hour drive from Guatemala City or Antigua. Most arrive at the lake in the main town, Panajachel and stay in a hotel there or take a boat to other hotels on the lake. Getting to Panajachel is easy, and can be organised through a tour operator offering a door-to-door services between Panajachel and Antigua or Guatemala City.

Showered in rainbows
Held in place 1560 meters (5100 ft.) above sea level by a natural dam of volcanoes makes for an ideal climate. It's never uncomfortably cold or hot. The rainy season lasts from May to October, but the sun does shine some almost every day. The word "atitlan" is a Mayan word that translates as "the place where the rainbow gets its colors" and in the wet season you are sure to see a few colourful arches rising gracefully above the lake.

Visit lakeside towns by boat
There is no road that encircles the lake, so visitors will have to settle for the next best option; taking a boat across the smooth waters to any one of the towns that sit on its banks. There are 11 communities around Lake Atitlan (including Panajachel) and visitors will have a variety of locations and experiences to choose from. Munching on hummus in Moonfish cafe in the hippy retreat of San Marcos or partying until the early hours in San Pedro, Lake Atitlan will have something to keep you entertained. If you want to get to grips with the language, numerous Spanish schools are based in San Pedro for you to choose from.

Visiting the volcanoes
Lake Atitlan is the result of land collapse following volcanic activity 84,000 years ago, and since then volcanic activity in the region has build three impressive volcanoes that dominate the skyline around the lake. All can be visited from the towns surrounding the lake.

The tallest of the three volcanoes, Atitlan, dominates the stunning lake with which it shares its name. Atitlan's summit takes about 8 hours to reach; the reward is a breathtaking view of the world's most beautiful lake and Guatemala's Pacific coast. Perhaps the most frequently photographed of all Guatemala's volcanoes, San Pedro's beautiful cone seems to rise from the waters of Lake Atitlan. The hike to the top takes about 4 hours, and while visitors will not get great views due to heavy vegetation on the summit, the crater serves as a refuge for rarely encountered species of plants and animals. Along with Atitlan and San Pedro that form the natural dam holding in Lake Atitlan, Toliman, the third volcano, has its own delights to offer. A small group of rare Horned Guans survives in the forest near the summit and hikers should plan on camping out for a good chance of sighting the birds.

Getting to know the locals
The lake basin supports a wide range of agricultural products, including coffee, that provide well for the largely indigenous population living around the area. Mayan cultural tradition is still strong, and many locals will be seen in traditional dress. Numerous humanitarian organisations, based out of the main centres of Panajachel and San Pedro, allow visitors who want to commit a couple of weeks to visiting communities and assisting in various projects.

However you want to get to know Lake Atitlan, you will be surrounded by the awe inspiring vistas that have left an undeniable impression on travellers over the centuries. With the ease of transport access from the big centres of Guatemala City and Antigua to help you get to one of the most beautiful places in the world, what are you waiting for?

Author: Gary Sargent - Escaped to Peru / Escaped to Latin America

martes, 25 de mayo de 2010

Antigua - The Incredible Moving City of Guatemala

Moving cities are normally reserved for fairy tales; castles in the sky and mythical kingdoms. The last place you'd expect to find such a place would be Antigua in Guatemala, but once you arrive it's not difficult to believe.

Walking down cobbled streets in the chill of the early morning, the sunlight brings alive the colours in the colonial city walls. A mist lies blanketing the lower slopes of the imposing Volcan de Agua that rises above Antigua to the south. Passing churches and grand plazas, you'll suddenly find yourself staring at the crumbling remains of once-mighty buildings, gracefully collapsing between restaurants, hotels and businesses. Words fail to describe the magic of the town.

Its difficult to believe that this sprawling cocktail of influences could have moved location like a travelling circus, but La Antigua Guatemala (or just Antigua for short) has found it difficult to settle in the same place.

Moved by the locals
The first of Antigua's big moves was for social reasons. Originally founded as the capital in 1524 on the site of a Kakchikel-Maya city (now called Iximche), severel Kakchikel uprisings forced the Spanish to consider a relocation.

Moved by the gods
The next location for the capital was deemed to be Valley of Alotenango (Rio Guacalate). The city was formally established on November 22, 1527. Things didn't last long there however, because on 11th September 1541 the site was destroyed by a devastating mudslide from the local volcano.

The golden years
So far spited by the indigenous population and now higher powers, the Spanish persevered. The Panchoy Valley was the next spot picked by the authorities and on March 10th 1543 the current location of Antigua was established. For the next 200 years the city functioned as the centre of government for the Spanish colony of Guatemala, reaching its estimated peak of population at around 60,000, until the next big shakeup.

The capital leaves, Antigua stays
Shakeup it literally was, an earthquake measuring 7.4 on the Richter scale hit Antigua on September 29, 1717. 3000 buildings were destroyed and the government gave serious consideration to moving its base of operations. This decision was made for them in 1773 when the Santa Maria earthquakes destroyed most of the town and the government made the decision to abandon the Panchoy Valley for the safer Valley of the Shrine, where present day Guatemala City stands. Antigua was left deserted with a few hangers-on, adopting the name of La Antigua thanks to its once illustrious glory days as the capital city.

What's left
Antigua may not have ascended to the same hights as in its glory days (the population now is estimated at 35,000) but visitors can still get a sense of the diverse influences that the city has picked up over its years of transience and change. Anyone in town during Semana Santa can witness the incredible processions through streets covered with elaborate and beautiful carpets predominantly made from dyed sawdust, flowers and even fruits and vegetables. Anyone keen to learn Spanish in an immersion environment will also be spoilt for choice, with a wide variety of language schools spread around the city; students and their teachers can often be seen wandering the streets or sitting in cafes conversing over a cup of coffee.

Thousands of travellers that come to Antigua fall in love with its colonial charm and unique blend of old and new. If you are planning a trip to Latin America, make sure to include it on your itinerary and do it soon; you never know when it will get itchy feet and decide to move again...

Author: Gary Sargent - Escaped to Peru / Escaped to Latin America

Volcano Hunting In Guatemala - Hot Stuff

If geography classes never used to excite you, Guatemala will change all that. Sitting on the boundary between two tectonic plates, the country is host to over 30 volcanoes of all shapes, sizes and states of activity. If you ever wanted to see what the inside of our planet is like and what happens when it decides to make an appearence, Guatemala is for you. From the thrill seeking adrenaline junkies that want to stand next to flowing lava to those wanting to see the lush tree-covered volcanic slopes rising above the gorgeous Lake Atitlan, there's something for everyone.

Active volcanoes - Bubbling Hot
If you want to feel like you're inside a National Geographic Channel episode, you couldn't go wrong with a visit to the following active volcanoes.

1) Pacaya
Pacaya is an active volcano located within easy reach, just 30 kilometers (20 miles) south of Guatemala City. A short hike brings visitors to the summit, where they can observe eruptions of ash and lava at close range. Some even return with stories of how walking over the upper slopes melted the soles of their shoes...

2) Fuego
Constantly spewing small ash clouds, this monstrous volcano's last major eruption occurred in 1974. To hike up barren slope is grueling, and most visitors will be content to admire Fuego's beauty from the safety of Antigua's cobblestone streets.

3) Santiaguito
The most dangerous volcano in Central America, Santiaguito first erupted on Volcano Santa Maria's southern flank in 1922. It constantly spews spectacular ash clouds and lava, and may be safely observed from nearby Santa Maria's summit. The hike to the top of Santa Maria takes about 4 hours and camping on the summit is recommended, to witness a spectacular nighttime lava show from Santiaguito below.

Dormant volcanoes - Keeping Us Guessing
They can't promise booming gas eruptions or spewing lava, but these volcanoes are just as impressive to visit.

1) Acatenango
Acatenango's last eruption was in 1972, so you can climb all the way to the summit without dodging lava flows. One of the most beautiful and varied hikes availble, you'll pass through entirely different ecosystems on the way to the summit. First farmland, then cloud forest followed by high alpine forest and finally the volcanic zone to the very summit.

2) Agua
Looming over the pretty colonial town of Antigua, a climb up this volcano is recommended for spectacular views. Hiking time is about 5 hours from Santa Maria de Jesus, or 2 hours from the end of road that climbs partway to the top.

3) Atitlan
The tallest of the three volcanoes dominating the stunning lake with which it shares its name, Atitlan's summit takes about 8 hours to reach; the reward is a breathtaking view of the world's most beautiful lake and Guatemala's Pacific coast.

Extinct volcanoes - Just Big Hills
Their glory days as unstoppable forces of nature may be gone, but the volcanoes left by ancient activity still have plenty to offer the visitor, especially in the way of flora and fauna left undisturbed by any activity.

1) San Pedro
Perhaps the most frequently photographed of all Guatemala's volcanoes, San Pedro's beautiful cone seems to rise from the waters of Lake Atitlan. The hike to the top takes about 4 hours, and while visitors will not get great views due heavy vegetation on the summit, the crater serves as refuge for rarely encountered species of plants and animals.

2) Toliman
One of the three volcanoes, along with Atitlan and San Pedro, that forms the natural dam holding in Lake Atitlan, Toliman has its own delights to offer. A small group of rare Horned Guans survives in the forest near the summit and hikers should plan on camping out for a good chance of sighting the birds.

3) Cerro de Oro
A smaller volcano on the south side of Lake Atitlan provides an interesting mix of geography and history, having once contained a Mayan fortress in its crater.

Getting to know the varied and spectacular geography of Guatemala will undoubtedly be an adventure, but that doesn't mean you should take unneccessary risks. If the lure of the active volcanoes should take your fancy, ensure that you book a tour with a reputable and responsible agency that provides you with a professional guide. This way you'll make sure that you will have nothing but incredible memories and photos of some of the most incredible and unique experiences that Latin America has to offer.

Author: Gary Sargent - Escaped to Peru / Escaped to Latin America

lunes, 17 de mayo de 2010

Time For A Vacation? by Gary Sargent

It's no secret that companies want us to believe that products will improve our quality of life. From shampoos that will make us more attractive to the latest big-screen TV to blow our minds, advertisements and shop windows are shouting about how we can be more happy if we own their stuff.

The interesting thing is that recent research has shown material possessions are not likely to make us happy at all; the key to a fulfilling life lies elsewhere.

A paper published in the January, 2010 issue of the Journal of Personality and Social Psychology by Travis Carter and Tom Gilovich looks at differences in the way people treat choices involving material goods (toys, electronics and jewelery) and choices involving experiences (climbing the steps of the temples at Tikal, boating across Lake Atitlan). Carter and Gilovich drew some interesting conclusions, including that people become less satisfied with consumer purchases over time, whereas those who had bought into experiences grew more satisfied over time.

A big factor behind this conclusion was that material purchases are easily subject to comparison. In the words of Gilovic, interviewed on BBC Brazil:

"Imagine you buy a flat screen TV, and you're happy with it. But then you come to my house and I have a TV with a larger and better picture. That will disappoint and annoy you."

If you go on a Guatemala vacation or a Brazil holiday package and someone else also does the same thing, you will have your own specific memories of the trip, different to the other person - your personal connection with Guatemala and Brazil which no one else has, and that makes the holiday special.

Experiences are individual, and thus non comparable. The study suggests that comparison between material purchases is the factor which breeds unhappiness and resentment, a factor that experiences are free from.

Another key point made by the study is the extent to which your purchase is a part of you. According to Gilovic:

"If you go on a hiking trip to Machu Picchu in Peru or in Patagonia, and the weather is terrible, you might not view it as a pleasurable experience in the here and now. Instead, you may view it as a challenge, and over time remember the positive aspects of the vacation experience more than the negative aspects," says Gilovich, "With material things you can't do this, because they are what they are."

Such memories form part of our character. In comparison, material possessions are exactly that; possessed by us. We feel no true connection with them, and they can be broken or replaced, often with a newer model, not to mention the diminishing appreciation that we feel for material things over time.

So, next time you've got a bit of spare cash that you are wondering how to use or you can't decide on a gift for someone else, consider investing it in experiences. According to the study, you're much likely to be happier, for longer.

martes, 11 de mayo de 2010

Tikal - Alternative Visits to The Famous Mayan Ruins in Guatemala

Anyone visiting the Classic Mayan ruins of Tikal will be impressed. Rising out of the dense jungle, the looming temples demonstrate the might of the ancient Mayans and demand respect from visitors, even thousands of years after their construction. If you're looking for alternative ways to be introduced to Tikal beyond a standard visit, you could try any of the following suggestions.

From A Galaxy Far, Far Away

Tikal was featured in the first Star Wars movie in 1977. If you keep a careful eye on things, you'll see a spaceship landing on the rebel planet of Yavin IV in dense jungle with impressive ancient towers rising out of the tree canopy that look a lot like...Tikal. To get the same view on the site, climb up to the top of Temple IV and look out over Temples I and II.

As a bird watcher

Tikal has an incredible array of bird-life, and even if you aren't a budding ornithologist you'll be impressed by the 410 species of bird that have been found on the site. Humans aren't the only tourists, with the North American Songbird paying a visit to Tikal to escape the cold winter months back at home. If birds aren't your thing, you could always stay alert for the wide range of other fauna, including howler monkeys, toucans, spider monkeys, falcons, coatis and (if you are very lucky) the occasional jaguar or cougar.

At full moon or at sunrise

If you can manage it, you can visit by 'unofficial' access to the site out of normal hours, either through tour operators or by trying independently. The noises of the jungle at night or the strange calls of the howler monkeys in early morning bring a strange ethereal feel to Tikal and you'll probably have the site to yourself. You certainly wont need to worry about the relentless attacks of mosquitoes that you get during the peak times for the site, and sunburn will not be a concern either. It probably wont be cheap, but you'll see a side of Tikal that few people have been lucky enough to experience.

As a conspiracy theorist

The Winter Solstice is at the end of the Mayan calendar, on December 4th. According to the Ancient Maya, their calendar finishes in the year 2012. At Mayan New Year, crowds of foreign and Guatemalan believers in Mayan religion and legend flood the steep steps and lofty platforms of Temple VI to welcome the new year in their colourful robes, counting down each year to what many people interpret as the end of the world. If you believe it or not, it's certainly an impressive spectacle.

In a time machine
Its not the most likely trip you'll ever take, but if you can get your hands on one you'll be able to visit the amazing milestones in the history of Tikal and the Maya. Choose from any point, from the first constructions raised on site in the 4th Century BC through the classic period between 200 and 900AD when the site flourished to its abandonment in the 10th Century AD, probably due to overpopulation and agrarian failure. It would certainly be an impressive time to show up, as Tikal was so important in the Classic Mayan Civilization that the collapse of the Mayan Empire shortly followed. The next stop could be the 'discovery' of Tikal hundreds of years later, bushwhacking through the jungle with tree-gum collector Abrosio Tut to stumble across the overgrown pyramids. You could pick any incredible historical period; after all, you've got a time machine!

For those unable to move freely through time, you can still get a sense of the rich history of Tikal through the guided tours that run all year round. As excavations have been conducted on the site since 1956, you'll have plenty of information on hand.

However you decide to discover this ancient jewel of the Mayan civilization, don't make it a missed opportunity. Guatemala is a country full of historical treasures and breath-taking landscapes that, incredibly, has managed to avoid mass tourism.

lunes, 10 de mayo de 2010

United Fruit Company in Guatemala - US Invasion For a Bunch of Bananas

Many people are aware of the 'Banana Republics' in the bad old days of Latin America; countries in which international corporations had so much power and influence that the government would be a puppet for foreign corporate interests. In 1954 the United States Army invaded Guatemala after what many believed was a decision made by a United States corporation; a key player behind one of the biggest Banana Republics in Central America.

One of the key culprits in meddling with Latin American government affairs in the first half of the 20th century was United Fruit Company. They were a US corporation founded in 1899 off the back of a railroad venture in Costa Rica. An important part of United Fruit Company's strategy was to gain control of the distribution of banana growing land. It did this through convincing governments that reserve land was needed to protect against the possibility of crop destruction from natural disasters or diseases. Because such huge percentages of land were owned by United Fruit Company, land ownership legislation was often breached and concessions were required from the government. This lead to political involvement, even though United Fruit Company was a foreign corporation operating overseas.

United Fruit Company
The 'Banana Republics' that grew from these situations often saw strong investment in infrastructure from corporations like United Fruit Company. Railroads, ports and transportation systems were put in place, and extensive employment was created. United Fruit Company also established many schools in the countries in which it operated. However, the Company often left vast tracts of land uncultivated and worked hard to block infrastructure development beyond its own operations, establishing its own network as a strong monopoly. Employment under United Fruit Company also wasn't much fun, testament to the extensive and often violent strikes that took place amongst its workforce over issues such as rates of pay and working conditions.

Guatemala
By the 1950's, things were looking promising for Guatemala. The dictator Jorge Ubico had been overthrown in 1944 and two administrations of democratically elected Presidents were leading Guatemala forwards. The President from the second administration, Jacobo Arbenz Guzman, was reforming the country extensively, including the permission of free expression, legalized unions, diverse political parties and basic socioeconomic reforms. One of these was a land reform aimed at reducing the suffering of the rural poor by redistributing unused land. The basis of this reform was that all such land would be purchased by the Government at the same value declared on the owners tax forms. The property could then be sold back to peasant cooperatives at low rates. Arbenz started by setting a strong personal example, selling his own land under the scheme.

Arbenz' land reform was ruffling a few feathers in United Fruit Company boardrooms. Of their 550,000 acres owned in Guatemala, 85% was uncultivated, which meant that the Company would lose a lot of leverage in Guatemala. Through the US Government, United Fruit Company asked for greater compensation than what was being offered by the Guatemalan Government.

The US invasion of Guatemala
In 1954, United Fruit Company's concerns were removed. United States fears of Communism taking root in Central America by a "domino effect" starting from Guatemala had caused the CIA to take action. Colonel Carlos Castillo Armas invaded from Honduras, overthrowing Guzman's administration. His forces were supported by US military troops, and trained, organized and equipped by the CIA through their covert program "PB Success".

Various arguments exist as to the level of involvement of United Fruit Company in the decision made by the US government to sponsor an invasion of a democratically elected government. Some historians point out that the land reforms had led to internal Guatemalan plotting against Arbenz from early 1954, and an overthrowing of the government was inevitable with or without US intervention. However, when you consider that the Director of the CIA at the time of Operation PB Success was Allan Dulles, a former President of United Fruit Company, and a board member at the time, evidence starts to build up in favour of corporate interests manipulating the US Government and international politics.

The aftermath

Following the coup, things went downhill fast for Guatemala. The country was plunged into 40 years of bloody civil war with a death toll up an estimated 150,000 victims. Despite the benefits of the nullified land reforms, things didn't go so well for United Fruit Company either. Stock value and profit margins declined and it was forced to sell off the last of its Guatemalan holdings in 1972.

Nothing changes

This fairly tragic tale of a country on the path to democratic reform thrown back decades by foreign commercial interests sets a cautionary note for the future. It's also fairly sobering to know that things haven't changed as much as we'd like, 60 years after the US invasion of Guatemala. In 2007, a large fruit company, Chiquita Brands International, was fined $25 million for for having paid "protection money" to the AUC, a right wing para-military organization in Colombia who are on the U.S. government's list of terrorist organizations. AUC "protection activities" included assassinating union leaders and threatening independent farmers to sell their land to Chiquita. Currently, Chiquita are being sued for having paid money to the FARC, a left wing group also on the United States' terrorist list for similar services, also in Colombia. Who are Chiquita Brands International? They were created from a renaming in 1984 of United Brands. One of the companies merged in 1970 to form United Brands was...United Fruit Company.

It seems that old habits die hard.