Walking the streets of Cusco in October, you could be forgiven for thinking that the city’s sole reason for existing is to allow large numbers of people to gather, march, proceed and otherwise celebrate the enormous number of saints whose images inhabit the various churches. As you turn a corner, you realize where the deep bass beat of drums is coming from as an orgy of color and sound greets your senses.

The marching band, whose dress varies from brightly colored traditional costumes, through plain black to the sand camouflage of the police units, proceed gravely over the cobbles, ahead of and often also behind an ornately dressed statue, carried at shoulder height by four or more sturdy cusqueños, natives of the city of Cusco.